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Succulent grapes, sometimes sour The obstacles faced by Turkey's winemakers Climate and politicians can hurt the vineyards In his time off, Umay Ceviker, an architect, goes hunting for ancient vines around his native Turkey. He has found them on mountaintops, forgotten among fruit trees, and tended in fields in every nook of the country. Each year he produces 10,000 bottles made from the indigenous varieties he has discovered, selling them to wine bars and boutique stores under seven different labels of his Yaban Kolektif brand. Mr Ceviker is helping revive Turkey’s viticulture. Though wine has been produced in Anatolia for millennia, the country’s modern vineyards and wineries produce mostly French varieties imported in the past century. But Mr Ceviker works with old vines that have survived for far longer, many abandoned when the Greeks and Armenians, vintners of the Ottoman empire, were forced out. Many of the Muslim farmers who took over now sell their produce for dried fruit o
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