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World in a dish The döner kebab has a meaty role in German society It is a diplomatic tool as well as a tasty, cheap meal “I have an onion on my head/I am a kebab/because kebab makes you more beautiful.” It is no surprise that the lyrics of “Döner macht schöner”, a German hit from 2004, do not deliver quite the same emotional payload in English. In Britain the kebab is a byword for drunken excess, devoured before bed and recalled in shame. In Germany, especially its capital, it is a more exalted affair. Every Berliner has a favoured Dönerladen. Many build family outings around them. The döner kebab (the umlaut is essential) long ago displaced currywurst as Berliners’ fast food of choice. But these days its ubiquity obliges it to carry a lot more than succulent strips of seasoned meat—lamb, veal or beef—served in flatbread with salad and sauces. Take inflation: where Germans once assessed price rises via the cost of ice-cream or beer, today newspapers calculate how ma
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